Things to Do in Lahore in March

March is arguably the best month to tackle the labyrinth of the Old City. The humidity is low, so the narrow, sun-dappled streets - where the smell of baking naan mixes with the tang of dye from the Kashmiri Bazaar - are bearable, even pleasant. The light in late afternoon turns the brick facades of the Delhi Gate a warm amber, good for photography without the shoulder-to-shoulder crowds of peak season.

The evening air in March has just the right crispness for a food crawl. In Gawalmandi, the sizzle of giant karahis and the smoky scent of charcoal-grilled boti will lead you. This is the time to try seasonal specialties like sarson ka saag (mustard greens) if you're early in the month, or the first of the fresh mango lassis. Sitting on a plastic stool under the neon lights, you won't overheat like you would in May.

This is when the Mughal's obsession with symmetry and nature makes the most sense. The fountains at Shalimar Garden play against a backdrop of newly green cypress trees, and the rose beds at Jehangir's Tomb are often in their first bloom. The drive to these sites on the Grand Trunk Road is more pleasant now, without summer's heat haze melting the horizon.

This is the only sane way to cover real distance in the Walled City's clogged arteries. In March, you can ride with the canopy back, feeling the warm sun and cool breeze in equal measure, the rickshaw's tinny speakers blasting Qawwali music as you zip past mosques and hole-in-the-wall workshops. The noise, the colors, the diesel fumes - it's immersive without being oppressive.

As the weather warms, Lahore's cultural calendar picks up. The Alhamra Arts Council often hosts evening music and dance performances in March. Sitting in the open-air hall, listening to classical tabla or Sufi singing under a starry sky with a gentle breeze, is a distinctly Lahori experience that moves beyond the monuments.